Climb Lenin Peak, 7134 m. 21 days programm.
Location: Chon-Alay. Kyrgyzstan/Tajikistan. Lat/Lon: 39.34690°N /
72.86920°E Season: July – August Elevation: 23406 ft / 7134
m Cost: 710 EURO per person
Overview
Peak Lenin is the third highest peak in the former Soviet
Union and is considered to be one of the easiest mountains over 7000m.
Because of this fact it has become one of the most popular peaks in the
world and annually receive hundreds of climbers from all over the
world.The area gets frigidly cold in the winter, even though it's not as
bad as at the Pik Pobeda area, which holds many records in the extreme
climate criteria. The spring is beautiful and extremely green and even
if the weather in general is quite good, sudden violent storms hits the
peak. More important though, is the deep snow which make attempts very
hard and the avalanche danger is generally higher. Melt off from the
glaciers and snow fields also makes access hard. In the main climbing
season the weather is usually quite stable and until you reach 5000m it
can be really hot. In the end of August storms appear with higher
frequency, it fast gets colder and the first autumn snowfalls hide
dangerous crevasses and makes progress on the peak harder.
Rout Description
There are several routes for climbing the summit, but the classical
route from the north side. The classical route does not demand special
experience and skills in technical climbing. Lenin Peak is one of the
obligatory summit of «Snow Leopard» — the highest title in alpinism in the
former Soviet Union. Lenin Peak is a very beautiful and powerful
peak, but the classical route does not have steep ice-rock parts. The
entire route should usually overcome in sheaf using the rope for 2-3
people.
Base Camp is situated on a large meadow (Edelweiss field)
at about 3600m. The route to camp 1 takes you across the meadow to follow
a steep, narrow path that ascends towards Puteshestvennikov Pass (4200m).
The trail switch-backs up the glacial moraine before the ascent via the
left ridge of Lenin Glacier to the head of the glacier where camp 1 is
established at 4200m. Camp 1 is also a permanent campsite with toilet
facilities, electricity and running water.
From camp 1 the walk starts off easy as you cross the flat glacier and
ascend the long snow slope which runs directly to the summit. The terrain
is heavily glaciated and you'll be roped up for sections of the trail.
There are also some fixed ropes and ladders across some of the more
crevassed sections. The north face of the mountain ahead of you is
avalanche prone after recent snow and care needs to be taken. You traverse
the rim of a large snow basin beneath Razdelny Peak and ascend a steep
400m snow slope to arrive at a flat sport where camp 2 is established at
5300m.
From camp 2 the route ascends steeply on to the ridge. The gradient is
up to 45 degrees at its steepest points. The route is not glaciated and
whilst crampons will be worn, ropes and harnesses are not usually
necessary. You follow the ridge up to an altitude of 6100m where camp 3
can be established in the small saddle under Mt Razdelnaya.
From camp 3 you will ascend along the western ridge of Peak Lenin. The
first part of this ridge is mixed snow and rock. A rocky plateau is
reached at 6400m. Above this plateau is a short steep snow slope of about
40 degrees. Above this there is a rocky section which leads to the summit
plateau at 7134m. The summit itself is marked with a memorial plaque. The
views are outstanding and stretch right across the Pamirs to Mustagh Ata
and Kongur in China. You will return via the same route to camp 3. Summit
day is a long day of up to 15 hours.
Skill
Lenin Peak is one of the easiest 7000m peaks in the
world and technically speaking, it's a straightforward climb, similar in
grade to Mont Blanc or Elbrus. Nevertheless it is a very high peak (over
2300m higher than Mont Blanc) so it is by no means an «easy summit». The
route follows a well-explored trail that includes some steep and exposed
stretches on ridges. Between base camp and camp 2 is heavily glaciated and
there is a small risk of avalanches. Winter mountaineering experience
and use of ice axe and crampons is essential. Although technically
straightforward neither the ascent nor the mountain should be
underestimated since both are Himalayan in character. High altitude and
adverse weather are the main concerns.
Base Camp — is located at an altitude of 3600m
above sea level on a picturesque glade covered by alpine flowers —
edelweiss. The Base camp surrounded by very nice small mountain
lakes. It is a wonderful nice place of relaxation and recreation. The
Camp is equipped with Yurts — mess-rooms where you may spend your time and
to taste some excellent dishes. Kitchen specialized on tasty and
excellent food 3 times a day. The accommodation is the
Base Camp will be provided in double tents (barrels). There is flooring
and tambour in every tent. We have toilet, shower with hot water in
our Base Camp. Electricity is generated every evening in our BC. You'll be
able to recharge your cameras satellite and mobile phones. There is a
mobile access (GSM standard) on 3600. Camp 1 — is located on moraine at an altitude of
4200m on rock moraine. This camp does not have all the conveniences as BC.
And this place is not oriented for relaxation and rest.
Program 21 days Bishkek — Bishkek.
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