Russia mountain guides
Russian mountain guides, Climbing, Ski touring and Telemark programms in Russia and CIS countries, climb mount Elbrus, Khan-Tengri, Lenin Peak, Communism and Korjenevskaya peaks expeditions, Muztagh Ata expedition.
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Basic programme to climb Communism or Korjenevskaia Peaks 28 days

Peak Communism (7495 m) is situated on the joint of the Academy Nauk Range and Peter Pervy Range, North West Pamirs. The peak is the highest summit of former USSR. The peak Korjenevskoy (7105 m) the 4-th summit of the former USSR — 12 km to the North from the Peak Communism.

Three glaciers — Fortambek, Moskvin and Valter flow down the North slope of the Peak Communism. Base camp is on grass meadow — Moskvin Meadow — between Valter and Moskvin glaciers, 4100 m. Camping is in tents.

There are more then 30 routes that lead to the top of Communism Peak. Out of them, most difficult is the one that starts from Beljaev Glacier and goes along steep (gradient over 80 degrees steep) 2000m long rocky wall. The easiest route starts from the Bivachny Glacier. Classic route starts from the Walter Glacier and goes up along the so called «Borodkin Ridge».

The dates of helicopter transfer to Moskvina Base Camp for the season 2006 are:
Arrival: 23.07, 26.07, 29.07, 2.08
Departure: 17.08, 20.08, 24.08, 27.08


Expedition program:
Day   Program
Day 1   Arrival in Dushanbe. Accommodation in hotel.
Day 2   Take helicopter flight to Base Camp at Moskvina glacier.
Day 3   Preparation day.
Day 4   Acclimatization climb to Vorobiova Peak (to the camp at 5300m)
Day 5   Climb the summit of Vorobiov Peak. (5690 m). Descend to BC.
Day 6   Rest day.
Day 7   Preparation day.
Day 8   Climb to Camp 1 (5100 m.)
Hike up the right side of the Walter Glacier's moraine. Across the glacier and further up the ice-snow «pillow» under the sheer slope of Big Pamir Plateau. It is necessary to cross it as early as possible and at maximum speed. Past «pillow» further up by rocky stretch to the crest where C1 is set (about 6-7 hours). Use of 2-3 ropes.
Day 9   Climb to Camp 2 (5800 m.)
Northern ridge (4-5 hrs).This part of the route is technically not difficult: wide snow-covered spur partly 35 to 40 degrees steep. The camp is set in a trough. From 5100m till 5300m use 2-3 ropes, from 5300m till 5800m the usage of the ropes is also necessary.
Day 10   Descend to Base Camp (BC).
Day 11   Rest day.
Day 12   Preparation day.
Day 13   Climb to Camp 1 (5100 m)
Day 14   Climb to Camp 2 (5800 m)
Day 15   Climb to Camp 3 (6100 m). Camp «Vostok».
Have early start and ascend to the two-headed summit. Climbing in roped party. Traverse up to the left to the top and then descend to Big Pamir Plateau (4-5hrs). From 5800m till 6000m use 4 ropes, from 6100m till 6200m use 2 ropes. While descending to Big Pamir Plateau use 1-2 ropes to cross over a crevasse.
Day 16   Climb to Camp 4 (6900 m) or (6700 m).
— Early start and climb on the northern snow/ice slope of Mt. Peak Dushanbe (7-8 hrs). . Climbing in roped-party. An ascent is technically easy. After ascent to Mt. Peak Dushanbe (7000 m) descend to the camp at 6900m.
Day 17   Ascend to the summit 7495 m and descend to Camp 4 or Camp 2.
Early start and climb up the steep snow slope keeping the steep rocks on the right. Carry on straight to the summit and then back to Camp 4 (6900 m). (8-9 hrs).
Day 18   Descend to Camp 1 or Camp 2.
Day 19   Descend to Base Camp
Day 20-24   Reserve days in case of bad weather.
Day 25   Take helicopter flight to Dushanbe. Overnight in hotel.
Day 26   Departure from Dushanbe.


The price of the tour - 1975 EURO per person

The price includes:
# arranging necessary documents (permits, ecology tax, registration in immigration policy)
# meeting / seeing off at / from the airport
# all transfers according to the program
# helicopter flights to BC and back with "Alp-Navruz" with the luggage 30kg/person
(for each kilogram of private luggage an additional payment will be 2 $/kg) - accommodation in hotel (2*) with breakfast in Dushanbe in dbl rooms (2 nights) (Additional payment for single supplement = 30$/pax)
# services in Base Camp "Alp-Navruz":
# accommodation in tents (for 2 persons)
# meals in the BC- 3 times a day
# using of shower, sauna, toilet, storage tent
# service of guide - consultant;
# medical aid;
# electricity 220V, 50Hz (in the evening);

The price does not include:
# Cost of visas
# Services of a mountain guide and porters for ascending
# Rent of mountaineering equipment