Programm to climb Muztagh Ata Peak, 7546m.
Dates of 2010: 06.07.10 —
30.07.10
27.07.10 — 20.08.10
Duration: 25 days Location: Xinjiang, China, Asia Lat/Lon:
38.20000°N / 75.10000°E Group: minimum 10 people Cost: 1800 EURO per person
«Easy» and popular
Muztagh Ata is one of the most popular 7000m peaks,
probably only second to Pik Lenin in the neighbouring country Kyrgyzstan.
There are many reasons for its popularity: - The access is very
easy. In a few hours you can reach the BC from the asphalted Karakoram
Highway. - The mountain is located in an interesting part of the
world, close to the old Silk Road and the beauty of nature is
stunning. - The main reason is probably Muztagh
Ata's reputation being the easiest 7000m peak. The normal route is easy,
technically speaking and there are few objective dangers. The high
altitude, the deep snow on the enormous wind swept slopes and the biting
winds over 7000 meters still make it a hard target. The bottom line is;
there's no easy peak of that altitude. Name and location
The name Muztagh Ata means Father of Ice Mountain in the local language
Uygyr It's easy to understand why it got its name as it really dominates
its surroundings. It's not only a high peak; it's also large in terms of
the circumference of the base. Its glaciated summit looms about 4
kilometres over the beautiful Subashi Valley and the deep blue Karakol
Lake completes the picture.
There has been a debate about which range the peak belongs to, but
nowadays most consider it to mark the western end of the mighty Kunlun
Shan Range. Some are still placing Muztagh Ata in The Pamirs, but those
are in small minority. The sub range it belongs to is named Kongur Shan,
which refers to its higher neighbour a bit further north. Muztagh Ata is
the third highest peak in the Kunlun, second to Kongur.
Climbing History
The first recorded attempt to climb the peak dates
back to 1894. It was famous explorer and cartographer Sven Hedin who first
tried to ascend on the back of a yak. The yak died and Hedin continued on
foot towards the summit. He failed and so did other expeditions in 1900,
1904 and 1947. The last was lead by famous and experienced climbers Bill
Tilman and Eric Shipton. They got close to the summit but had to turn back
due to deep snow and extreme cold. Muztagh Ata was finally climbed by a
huge Soviet-China team in 1956. Beletskiy was the formal leader and they
used the west ridge.
Routes, a brief
There are two routes on the western side of the peak. The normal
route, located on the northernmost of the two snow and glacier slopes of
Muztagh Ata. It's a straight forward climb without any technical section.
There's an icefall in between 5500 and 6100m. There are some crevasses,
but in general free of objective danger.
On the more southern slope on the west side of the peak, you can find
the much less used Traditional Route. It is slightly longer, but equally
easy. Some say the crevasse danger is lower, but as it is used by far less
climbers, route finding can be a concern. It passes just under Muztagh
Ata's south summit Kalaxong, therefore many use the name «Kalaxong Ridge
Route». These two routes are never steep, possibly up to 40 degrees.
Snow shoes or skis are recommended as you usually have to battle deep
snow.
Program Bishkek — Bishkek
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Day |
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Program |
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Day 1 |
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Arrival in Bishkek. Rest.
Afternoon transfer to Naryn, Accommodation in Guest House or Yurt camp. |
Day 2 |
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Drive to the Torugart Pass,crossing
the Kyrgyzstan-China border; meeting your guide from China,
then escorted driving to Kashgar, 3 hours; hotel accommodation
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Day 3 |
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Kashgar/Subashi (BUS
200kms 4-5 hours), we will drive along the Karakorum Highway
winding for several hours through the narrow gorge of the Gez
River. Then you ascend to an altitude of 3,900 metres by the
shores of KARAKURI LAKE, 196 km from Kashgar. Horses, yaks and
camels graze on the rich pasturage. Then we drive 10kms to Subashi |
Day 4 |
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Trekking to Base camp
In the morning we drive 10kms to Subashi and meet our camels
and start the walk to base camp. With the camels carrying the
team's equipment, we trek over a level plane and then climb
steadily through barren hills to base camp, approximately a
4-hour walk. Drifts of alpine flowers clothe the slopes as
base camp is approached and screeching marmots call a welcome.
Camping.
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Day 5-20 |
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Climbing Activity. Period
for climbing of Muztag-Ata, which ask for building and
supplying of three high camps.
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Days 21 |
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Base
Camp/Subash/Kashgar(Trekking+Bus). In the morning we will go
down to Subashi, again our gear will be taken by camels. At
Subashi our transport to Kashgar will already be waiting and
we will arrive there in early evening. Hotel accommodation
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Day 22 |
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Kashgar. City tour at Kashgar, last
day of the expedition. Our tour includes the tombs of Abakh
Hoja Tomb, well-known Kashgar Bazaar, the famous Id Kah Mosque
and the most unique old town with typical Uyghur styled homes.
We visit the various shopping alleys full of noodle shops,
bakeries, teashops, blacksmiths and carpenters.
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Day 23 |
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Kashgar/Torugart
Pass(BUS) After breakfast, drive to the Torugart Pass; crossing
the China-Kyrgyzstan border. Transfer to Naryn, guest house or
yurt accommodation. |
Day 24 |
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Transfer Naryn — Bishkek.
Hotel. |
Day 25 |
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Transport to airport, flight home.
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The price includes:
1. Permit Fee; 2. Complete cost of
Liaison Officer 3. Entrance, Govt. taxes & insurance of local
staff 4. Wages, food & Equipment of local staff during
expedition 5. Transportation: Bishkek — Naryn — Torugart —
Kashgar — Subashi and back; 6. Hotel accommodation in Bishkek and
Kashgar based on sharing twin room with full board (breakfast, lunch
& dinner) according the program. In Naryn accommodation will be
provided in Guest house or Yurt. 7. Food during trek & at
the base camp 8. Porters and Camels from Subashi to Base camp
& return to Subashi. 9. Guide services to assist the
expedition but not high altitude guide 10. Complete kitchen
equipment incl. kitchen tent , mess tent ,tables, stools, a mess
kit, gas stoves and a cooking set ETC. 11. Sleeping tents in base
camp (one tent shared by two people) 12. Official visa invitation if required
The price does not include:
1. Visa 2. All changes during the program
(extra transfers, extra days in towns or base camp) 3. Equipment
over the Base camp (high altitude tents, high altitude food) 4.
Porters over the Base camp 5. Single supplement is 105$ per
person 6. Excursions, which are not listed 7. Extra meals and
alcoholic drinks 8. Extra days in Bishkek or Kashgar, which are
not included in the program are 45$ per person for day in TWN room
and 85$ for day in SGL room (accommodation and full board
nutrition) 10. Personal guide for ascending is 2000 EURO 11.
Personal equipment (sleeping bags, shoes, snowshoes, and etc) 12. Excursion around
Bishkek city is 60 EURO per
group.
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Remark: The program will be
available only if the group will be 10 people minimum, we will inform every
customer about how many people will be in a group. If one of the group
will be not completed we can change dates of expedition, we will inform you
about any changes
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