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Seven thousands meters peak, standing in Muztagh Ata massif. Koskulak
is facing the same problem as all mountains that are found near
a much bigger and much more popular one, in this case 7546 meter
Muztagh Ata one of Asia's most popular climbing objectives overall.
Thanks to that Koskulak was still unclimbed till August 2005.
Summit of Koskulak was reached by 4 members of a Russian expedition,
(Alexandr Novik, Dmitry Komarov, Leonid Fishkis, Russia), on the
10th August 2005. Two days later, August 12 an unspecified number
of members of another Russian expedition, (MAI) also reached the
summit from the West side.
In August 2005 Valery Shamalo and Alexey Gorbatenkov climbed new
route on the North Face of Koskulak Peak.
Technically difficult route allow to reach the summit platoe in
the most close point to the summit. Totally it took us 7 days up
and one day down.
The route starts from Kalaxong glacier with long and steep snow
slope. Snow is really deep there and it makes breaking the trail
rather exhausting.
Snow finishing with rock face with steepness from 70 to
90 degrees. Main difficulties here were thin ice on the rocks, which
makes climbing unsure and belaying difficult.
We did not met good bivouac places during first rock part of
the route and spent three seating overnights there. This part
could be climbed faster, but we had not proper acclimatization and
had to pull the backpack of the leading climber. Rocks were covered
with thin ice or snow, what's make you to look for the relief to
climb or belay. That's also makes progress slow.
Rock belt finishing with steep snow slopes with some rocks on it.
Here we established last camp before summit attempt and
spent first comfortable overnight.
On a summit day we had plenty of snow before platoe, moving about
100 meters in one hour. Before the summit platoe we met the last
challenge on the route - big snow cornice. It was not possible to
climb it with normal ice equipe, as snow could not hold the weight
of climber. Finally we used two snow anchors and two ice instruments
to climb it in a couple of hours. Our summit was in 400 meters from
thу cornice and we reached the summit in half an hour.
Comparing with other possible way on the Nortth face of Koskulak
this route has a logic of direct way to the summit. We arrived to
the summit platoe in the most close point to the summit, outstanding
in 400 hundred meters of very flat snow field. That allow us to
escape long way on the altitude of 7000 meters.
Photogallery:
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