Russia mountain guides
Russian mountain guides, Climbing, Ski touring and Telemark programms in Russia and CIS countries, climb mount Elbrus, Khan-Tengri, Lenin Peak, Communism and Korjenevskaya peaks expeditions, Muztagh Ata expedition.
  Home     Guides     Photogallery     Contacts     Links     Sources     Site map  
  search
Kun Lun ::  Koskulak Peak
Koskulak Peak, 7028m. Muztagh Ata massif. 

Seven thousands meters peak, standing in Muztagh Ata massif. Koskulak is facing the same problem as all mountains that are found near a much bigger and much more popular one, in this case 7546 meter Muztagh Ata one of Asia's most popular climbing objectives overall. Thanks to that Koskulak was still unclimbed till August 2005.

Summit of Koskulak was reached by 4 members of a Russian expedition, (Alexandr Novik, Dmitry Komarov, Leonid Fishkis, Russia), on the 10th August 2005. Two days later, August 12 an unspecified number of members of another Russian expedition, (MAI) also reached the summit from the West side.

In August 2005 Valery Shamalo and Alexey Gorbatenkov climbed new route on the North Face of Koskulak Peak.
Technically difficult route allow to reach the summit platoe in the most close point to the summit. Totally it took us 7 days up and one day down.
The route starts from Kalaxong glacier with long and steep snow slope. Snow is really deep there and it makes breaking the trail rather exhausting.
Snow finishing with rock face with steepness from 70 to 90 degrees. Main difficulties here were thin ice on the rocks, which makes climbing unsure and belaying difficult.
We did not met good bivouac places during first rock part of the route and spent three seating overnights there. This part could be climbed faster, but we had not proper acclimatization and had to pull the backpack of the leading climber. Rocks were covered with thin ice or snow, what's make you to look for the relief to climb or belay. That's also makes progress slow. 

Rock belt finishing with steep snow slopes with some rocks on it. Here we established last camp before summit attempt and spent first comfortable overnight.

On a summit day we had plenty of snow before platoe, moving about 100 meters in one hour. Before the summit platoe we met the last challenge on the route - big snow cornice. It was not possible to climb it with normal ice equipe, as snow could not hold the weight of climber. Finally we used two snow anchors and two ice instruments to climb it in a couple of hours. Our summit was in 400 meters from thу cornice and we reached the summit in half an hour.

Comparing with other possible way on the Nortth face of Koskulak this route has a logic of direct way to the summit. We arrived to the summit platoe in the most close point to the summit, outstanding in 400 hundred meters of very flat snow field. That allow us to escape long way on the altitude of 7000 meters.

Photogallery:

 
Avalanche from Koskulak coming to Kalaxong glacier First night in the crevasse Beginning of the route. Entering the face Hiding under cornice
Avalanche from Koskulak to Kalaxong glacier First night in the crevasse Beginning of the route. Entering the face Hiding under cornice
On the rocks Koskulak north face In the end of the rock belt Snow cornice
On the rocks Koskulak north face In the end of the rock belt Snow cornice
Seating overnight View from the summit platoe to Kalaxong and Muztagh Ata peaks Koskulak faces from Kalaxong glacier Sunset
Seating overnight View from the summit platoe to Kalaxong and Muztagh Ata peaks Koskulak faces from Kalaxong glacier Sunset
 
New Route - climb Elbrus, Caucasus, Kamchatka