This year we examed new route
from the North side which probably could
be the classic route on
Kongur. Comparing with Bonington's route it is
much shorter, as
it is going from the valley straight up to the Kongur
shoulder
and than through the rock ridge to the summit. Bonington's
South
Side route is longer and has a long traverse on the
altitudes
around 7000 m.
Next summer we suggest to start
in the middle or beginning of July and to have China visas for two
monthes. This way we whant to combine both acclimatization and
climbing programms. M.b. it would take two whole monthes, but
we
want to have enough time (one month would not be enough).
Regarding costs — we did not specify costs for the next year,
this
year it was about $1600 per person, totally 5 persons. Hope
next year it would be
cheaper, cause of better experience we have
now. Also we whant to find
more people. Just want to pay your
attantion that this is non
commercial expedition — we do not try
to gain money on this — so we do
not ask for prepayments and so
on. Just if you finally decide to go
you would confirm it few
monthes before the expedition — to make visa
and permits
applications.
Regarding this year attempt: we arrived in the BC too late,
autumn was
starting already. We have made one acclimatization
turn till 6000
meters and on the summit bid we reached ~ 7000 m.
It was too cold to
continue on the summit day, so we decide to
turn back.
Our route does not requires a lot of technical climbing
till 7200 m., but after it is a steep rock ridge, which requires
good climbing skills.
From this year experience sometimes we
really wanted to have skis or
snow shoes with us because of very
hard trail breaking. |
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